South African Pinotage: A Unique Wine with a Rich History
Pinotage, a world-class wine, is South Africa's pride. Abraham Izak Perold, the first Viticulture Professor at Stellenbosch University and a Cape native, is the mastermind behind this renowned varietal.
In the 1920s, Perold embarked on a journey of grape variety crossbreeding. His choice to cross the noble Pinot Noir with the modest Hermitage was unusual, and he left no explanation. He planted just four seeds at the Welgevallen Experimental farm, his official residence.
When Perold moved to Paarl to join KWV, his four seedlings were left behind and seemingly forgotten. However, Dr. Charlie Niehaus, who happened to be passing by, saved these seedlings from being discarded by university gardeners clearing Perold's former homestead.
These four Pinotage seedlings found a new home at the Elsenburg Agricultural Academy outside Stellenbosch. Here, innovative farmers acquired plant material for experimental winemaking. Bellevue and Kanonkop estates, the first to plant Pinotage vines, are still celebrated Pinotage producers today.
The famous Lanzerac Pinotage, the champion wine at the 1959 Cape Wine Show and the first commercial bottling was made from Bellevue grapes. This early success and the varietal's easy cultivation led to widespread commercial planting in the 1960s.
Despite its ease of cultivation, Pinotage faced criticism. During the 1980s wine industry boom, Pinotage struggled to establish itself as a quality wine, with common complaints about a "paint smell".
In 1991, Beyers Truter of Beyerskloof won the Best Winemaker in the World title at the International Wine Challenge in London for Kanonkop Pinotage 1989. However, some South African winemakers still believe Pinotage has no place in a vineyard.
This disdain for Pinotage may stem from its status as a distinctly New World Wine, while the trend in South African wine is to reflect more European influences and flavors.
Despite being a young varietal, only 50 years old, Pinotage is recognized as South Africa's most significant contribution to international wine culture.
A good Pinotage offers a depth of flavor, including banana, dried fruits, malt, vegetable oil, herbs, blackcurrant, and custard. Its texture is velvety, and it leaves an impression of a unique, fruity, and refreshing wine that pairs well with food, from venison to far-eastern cuisine.
The most important reason to drink Pinotage is its enjoyment. It is uniquely South African. So, raise your glass of Pinotage and toast to the unconventional!
Beyers Truter, arguably the world's foremost Pinotage expert, once said, "Pinotage could not have found a better home than South Africa. The grape is just as opinionated, thick-skinned and full of nonsense as a true South African!"
The popular Diemersfontein Coffee Chocolate Pinotage is my personal favorite. Since 2001, Diemersfontein Winery's accessible flagship Pinotage has captivated both new drinkers and experienced wine enthusiasts with its vivacity.
